Most situations can be solved very simply, so please review the frequently asked questions below before you give us a call.

My wick is off center!

This can occur for two reasons.

1 ~ When the candle has been burning for a long time, the pool gets very soft and the wick may settle a little to one side. Also, when the wick is extinguished by dunking, it is important to straighten the wick back into its centered, upright position, before the wax solidifies.

2 ~ On rare occasions, our wick may be slightly off center in some section of the candle.

Either way, this is easily corrected. Light your candle and let it burn for 1 - 2 hours. Using a pair of scissors, a chopstick, etc., slide the implement down the side of the wick that is off center. Go down about ¾ - 1" deep. Do this on the side that is too close to the edge and ‘push’ the wick gently into the center. Hold the candle firmly with the other hand when doing this.

I can’t light my candle!

Our plant fiber wicks are substantial and the best way to light any of our candles is to ‘tilt’ the candle so you can get the flame ‘under’ the wick. It is advisable to use a lighter or wooden match, although the barbeque starters are great. Paper matches are not sufficient, except with tapers, tealites, etc.

What should I do with the left over wax from my candles?

Never throw out left over beeswax. All the scraps from your candles can be reused for a variety of purposes.

For information on these uses, our inexpensive ‘WAXEMS’ pkg. has very complete instructions on many household uses for beeswax, along with our family recipes for lip balm, hand cream, healing salve, etc.

The best way to use up most of your scraps is to simply recycled them back into any other Original Pheylonian Beeswax candle. Simply shave the left over wax into small pieces or break it up into chunks and use it as fuel to ‘top up’ your candle whenever possible.

‘Topping Up’ with Leftover Beeswax
Never throw out any beeswax that is left over at the bottom of your candle or scraps which may have dripped down the candle. This is valuable fuel that can be added back into your new candles to extend their burning life.

Unlike any other candle on the market, Original Pheylonian Candles love to be fed, especially our votive candles and any pillar and orb candles with a 3"+ diameter. They can be ‘topped up’ with any leftover beeswax from previous candles. The reason you can do this is because of our wicking, which does not get shorter on its own. In fact, adding leftover scraps into your candles is a great way to bring up the level of the pool and hence, shorten the wick.

Votives and Survival Cans ~ Votives are great to top up because of the solid sides.

Pillars and Orbs ~ Our 3"+ pillars and orbs are the best size to top up. As the pool burns down, the wick gets taller and so does the flame. To adjust this with ‘scraps’, push in a little of the sidewall wax to ensure that the pool edge is at least ¼" wide, then add enough scraps to raise the pool to where the wick is back to about 3/16". Be cautious not to add too much, as you can drowned the wick.

My candle smokes a lot when I blow it out!

Why you should never ‘blow out’ your Original Pheylonian Beeswax Candle.

The plant fiber wicks that are used in our candles work by conducting the liquid beeswax up the wick to the flame, very much like an oil lamp. If you blow out the flame, this type of wick continues to smoke and smolder. Smoldering means there are still small embers burning inside the wick, burning the wax out of the fibers. Generally, this will not completely damage the wick, however, it could leave the wick brittle and unable to re-light and hold a flame properly. 

Ideally, your candle should always be extinguished using a snuffer or by being ‘dunked’. ‘Dunking’ is a method of dipping the wick into its own pool of liquid wax using an implement like a pencil, chopstick, the point of your wax scissors or even a small stick. 

Do I have to keep my candles in the freezer?

No,,, not at all. People keep paraffin candles in the freezer because they burn so fast, and having them frozen makes them last a little longer. Beeswax actually has a much higher melting temperature than paraffin which melts or gets very soft in 80 – 90 degree weather. Beeswax softens at about 140 degrees making it far more functional in products like our Original Pheylonian Life Lite Survival Candles, as they will not melt all over your trunk or supplies in very hot weather.

Should I put all of my candles on a candleholder?

It is always wise to put something that is flame resistant under any candle, but you don’t have to go out and buy something fancy. We have oftimes used old plates or saucers from dinnerware sets. You can find really funky plates and even shallow bowls at dollar stores which will work just fine.

~ Tapers should always be secured into a proper sized candleholder.

~ Tealites should also be on a heat resistant surface or in a tealite holder made of glass, steel or rock, as the metal cup can get very hot. The high temperature, acrylic tealite cups are the exception.

 

My candle keeps melting through one side and leaking!

This is most often due to the wick being too long or a draft blowing the flame and the heat to one side. Always check the wick length before lighting during its burn time, along with being aware of any significant drafts in the room.

It may be because the candle you are using is not suited to the length of time you candles for. Example: if you burn a CG2 candle, which is only 2.5 inched wide, for an average of 3 – 4 hours, you have to start pushing the sides in and checking the wick by hour 2. You would be better suited to burn a Temple Lite (3.5" diameter) candle or an Eternal Flame (4.5" diameter).

The other reason for this can be that the wick is off center and is burning to one side too quickly. Refer to ‘My wick is off center’ at the top of the page.

Why is the wax on the inside of the candle different than the colour on the outside?

Beeswax comes in quite a wide variety of shades and earth tones. During our decades of working with beeswax, we have defined the tones people like the best. We selectively use the less attractive colours of the pure beeswax in the cores and dress the outsides with hand dripped or dipped applications of the more attractive tones of wax which we selectively mix in large batches.

See the Colours of Beeswax page for more comprehensive information. 

My candle has this whitish looking film all over it. Is it mold?

No, this is simply a natural reaction of pure cappings beeswax. Over time, beeswax naturally produces a whitish film on the outside of the candle. This is called ‘bloom’ and is the natural tannin that is exuded from pure beeswax, and a sign of purity.

You can get rid of it by handling your candle with warm hands or simply use a hair dryer on a low setting. Watch as the bloom disappears and the candle takes on a fresh, shining appearance. The hair dryer is particularly helpful on the hand-dripped candles as it is easier to de-bloom the crevices and cracks.

Bloom from cappings beeswax is actually the most expensive cosmetic known on the planet today and was similarily revered in many ancient cultures. As your candles develop this whitish film over time, simply rub your finger tips over the candle to remove the bloom, then gently apply the bloom to the skin around your face, particularly the temples and brow, or to your hands or other dry spots.

My candle near the window seems to be getting fainter in colour.

Beeswax is like any other natural item, it will fade or become lighter in colour if exposed to direct or semi-direct sunlight. Keep out of direct sunlight.

‘Crack’ or crevice in the top of your candle. When our pillar or orb candles with the wider diameters (Eternal Flames and Triple Reacthors) are burned for an extended length of time, and the wicks are allowed to get tall, the wax can get very hot. In these cases, when the candle is extinguished and the pool cools, it is likely that it will solidify with a ‘crack’ in the surface because of the cooling process.

This is not a problem, it is simply the reaction of ‘heating and cooling’ causing expansion and contraction. When you re-light your candle, just watch the length of the candle wick(s) and make sure it does not get too tall as the pool fills the crevice. You can always stuff some pieces of wax in the crevice or next to the wick in the pool. The flame will quickly melt it and bring the level up.

 

Still Having a Problem?

If you experience any problems with your Original Pheylonian Beeswax Candle, please feel free to call us on our toll free line at 1-877-445-6942 or Contact Us.

 

 

 

Legal Terms