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Most situations
can be solved very simply, so please review the frequently asked
questions below before you give us a call.
My wick is off
center!
This can occur
for two reasons.
1 ~ When the
candle has been burning for a long time, the pool gets very soft
and the wick may settle a little to one side. Also, when the wick
is extinguished by dunking, it is important to straighten the
wick back into its centered, upright position, before the wax
solidifies.
2 ~ On rare
occasions, our wick may be slightly off center in some section
of the candle.
Either way,
this is easily corrected. Light your candle and let it burn
for 1 - 2 hours. Using a pair of scissors, a chopstick, etc.,
slide the implement down the side of the wick that is off
center. Go down about ¾ - 1" deep. Do this on the side
that is too close to the edge and ‘push’ the wick
gently into the center. Hold the candle firmly with the other
hand when doing this.
I can’t light
my candle!
Our plant fiber
wicks are substantial and the best way to light any of our
candles is to ‘tilt’ the candle so you can get the flame ‘under’
the wick. It is advisable to use a lighter or wooden match,
although the barbeque starters are great. Paper matches are not
sufficient, except with tapers, tealites, etc.
What should I
do with the left over wax from my candles?
Never throw out
left over beeswax. All the scraps from your candles can be
reused for a variety of purposes.
For information
on these uses, our inexpensive ‘WAXEMS’ pkg. has very
complete instructions on many household uses for beeswax, along
with our family recipes for lip balm, hand cream, healing salve,
etc.
The best way to
use up most of your scraps is to simply recycled them back
into any other Original Pheylonian Beeswax candle. Simply shave the left
over wax into small pieces or break it up into chunks and
use it as fuel to ‘top up’ your candle whenever possible.
‘Topping Up’
with Leftover Beeswax
Never throw out any beeswax that is left over at the bottom of
your candle or scraps which may have dripped down the candle.
This is valuable fuel that can be added back into your new
candles to extend their burning life.
Unlike any
other candle on the market, Original Pheylonian Candles love to be fed,
especially our votive candles and any pillar and orb candles
with a 3"+ diameter. They can be ‘topped up’ with any
leftover beeswax from previous candles. The reason you can do
this is because of our wicking, which does not get shorter on
its own. In fact, adding leftover scraps into your candles is a
great way to bring up the level of the pool and hence, shorten
the wick.
Votives and
Survival Cans
~ Votives are great to top up because of the solid sides.
Pillars and
Orbs ~
Our 3"+ pillars and orbs are the best size to top up. As
the pool burns down, the wick gets taller and so does the flame.
To adjust this with ‘scraps’, push in a little of the
sidewall wax to ensure that the pool edge is at least ¼"
wide, then add enough scraps to raise the pool to where the wick
is back to about 3/16". Be cautious not to add too much, as
you can drowned the wick.
My candle
smokes a lot when I blow it out!
Why you should
never ‘blow out’ your Original Pheylonian Beeswax Candle.
The plant fiber
wicks that are used in our candles work by conducting the liquid
beeswax up the wick to the flame, very much like an oil lamp. If
you
blow out the flame, this type of wick continues to smoke and
smolder. Smoldering means there are still small embers
burning inside the wick, burning the wax out of the fibers.
Generally, this will not completely damage the
wick, however, it could leave the wick brittle and unable
to re-light and hold a flame properly.
Ideally, your candle should always be extinguished using a
snuffer or by being ‘dunked’. ‘Dunking’ is a method
of dipping the wick into its own pool of liquid wax using an
implement like a pencil, chopstick, the point of your wax
scissors or even a small stick.
Do I have to
keep my candles in the freezer?
No,,, not at
all. People keep paraffin candles in the freezer because they
burn so fast, and having them frozen makes them last a little
longer. Beeswax actually has a much higher melting temperature
than paraffin which melts or gets very soft in 80 – 90 degree
weather. Beeswax softens at about 140 degrees making it far more
functional in products like our Original
Pheylonian Life Lite Survival Candles, as they will not melt all over your trunk or supplies
in very hot weather.
Should I put
all of my candles on a candleholder?
It is always
wise to put something that is flame resistant under any candle,
but you don’t have to go out and buy something fancy. We have
oftimes used old plates or saucers from dinnerware sets. You can
find really funky plates and even shallow bowls at
dollar stores which will work just fine.
~ Tapers
should always be secured into a proper sized candleholder.
~ Tealites should
also be on a heat resistant surface or in a tealite holder made
of glass, steel or rock, as the metal cup can get very hot. The
high temperature, acrylic tealite cups are the exception.
My candle
keeps melting through one side and leaking!
This is most
often due to the wick being too long or a draft blowing the
flame and the heat to one side. Always check the wick length
before lighting during its burn time, along with being aware of
any significant drafts in the room.
It may be
because the candle you are using is not suited to the length of
time you candles for. Example: if you burn a CG2 candle, which
is only 2.5 inched wide, for an average of 3 – 4 hours, you
have to start pushing the sides in and checking the wick by hour
2. You would be better suited to burn a Temple Lite (3.5"
diameter) candle or an Eternal Flame (4.5" diameter).
The other
reason for this can be that the wick is off center and is
burning to one side too quickly. Refer to ‘My wick is off
center’ at the top of the page.
Why is the wax
on the inside of the candle different than the colour on the
outside?
Beeswax comes
in quite a wide variety of shades and earth tones. During our
decades of working with beeswax, we have defined the tones
people like the best. We selectively use the less attractive
colours of the pure beeswax in the cores and dress the outsides
with hand dripped or dipped applications of the more attractive
tones of wax which we selectively mix in large batches.
See the Colours
of Beeswax page for more comprehensive
information.
My candle has
this whitish looking film all over it. Is it mold?
No, this is
simply a natural reaction of pure cappings beeswax. Over time,
beeswax naturally produces a whitish film on the outside of the
candle. This is called ‘bloom’ and is the natural
tannin that is exuded from pure beeswax, and a sign of purity.
You can get rid
of it by handling your candle with warm hands or simply use a
hair dryer on a low setting. Watch as the bloom disappears and
the candle takes on a fresh, shining appearance. The hair dryer
is particularly helpful on the hand-dripped candles as it is
easier to de-bloom the crevices and cracks.
Bloom from
cappings beeswax is actually the most expensive cosmetic known
on the planet today and was similarily revered in many ancient
cultures. As your candles develop this whitish film over time,
simply rub your finger tips over the candle to remove the bloom,
then gently apply the bloom to the skin around your face,
particularly the temples and brow, or to your hands or other dry
spots.
My candle near
the window seems to be getting fainter in colour.
Beeswax is like
any other natural item, it will fade or become lighter in
colour if exposed to direct or semi-direct sunlight. Keep out of
direct sunlight.
‘Crack’ or
crevice in the top of your candle.
When our pillar or orb candles with the wider diameters (Eternal
Flames and Triple Reacthors) are burned for an extended length
of time, and the wicks are allowed to get tall, the wax can get
very hot. In these cases, when the candle is extinguished and
the pool cools, it is likely that it will solidify with a ‘crack’
in the surface because of the cooling process.
This is not a
problem, it is simply the reaction of ‘heating and cooling’
causing expansion and contraction. When you re-light your candle,
just watch the length of the candle wick(s) and make sure it
does not get too tall
as the pool fills the crevice. You can always stuff some
pieces of wax in the crevice or next to the wick in the pool.
The flame will quickly melt it and bring the level up.
Still Having a
Problem?
If you
experience any problems with your Original Pheylonian Beeswax Candle,
please feel free to call us on our toll free line at
1-877-445-6942 or Contact Us.
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